One Ocean Expeditions’ Akademik Ioffe departed for Antarctica on the
first day of the 2012/13 cruise season, 08 November.
For some, this time of year is too early or too cold, but there are many
surprising advantages.
Most obviously, November presents the best opportunity to see
Antarctica in its most undisturbed form, when the snow is pure white
(not dirtied by penguin poo and muddy footprints) and fewer ships are
in the area.
It’s also the start of the mating period for penguins, allowing
voyeuristic visitors the chance to observe their fascinating courtship
rituals and nest-building antics.
On the downside, there may be less wildlife, but you can get lucky.
And we got incredibly lucky.
At our first destination, Yankee Harbour, our onboard naturalist, the
unflappably enthusiastic Brian Keating, warned that we might not see
any penguins yet, but moments later, he was beside himself with
excitement.
We just happened to arrive at the same time as thousands of Gentoo
penguins, who had spent several months at sea.
An estimated 2,000 of them, coming ashore in a clumsy, slippery show,
to find the perfect nesting spots for the breeding season.
They leapt out of the water onto icebergs (or often, completely missed
and tried, tried, tried again, much to our amusement).
Unperturbed by the sight of 50 humans, they then waddled, en masse,
across the pristine island.
I lay down near their path and watched the parade for three delightful
hours.
Most continued on their mission, but some walked straight towards
me or stopped nearby to join me for a rest.
It’s no exaggeration to say this was the most incredible and endearing
scene I had ever witnessed.
On another day, we visited a penguin rookery where the mating had
begun.
Passengers were charmed by the way these animals bowed to each
other, asking permission, and when a couple bonded, they would
point their beaks to the sky, flap their wings and let out the “ecstasy call”.
Kayaking and skiing
Early season is certainly colder than February, but it’s the best time for
adventure activities.
Yes, there is much to be said for kayaking in summer to see whales;
however, my most memorable moment was paddling through the icy
water.
Snow was piled high on our kayak, the floating slush was three inches
thick, and I giggled at the sensation of paddling through a frozen
daiquiri.
Only six couples ventured out on this chilly morning. The silvery
lighting was surreal, the silence was eerie; it truly felt like another
planet, removed from ‘the real world’.
One Ocean Expeditions offers kayaking and skiing on the first voyage
of each season (for an extra charge), which is highly recommend for
anyone seeking a more active experience of this intriguing continent.
Camping on the ice is also a possibility (subject to weather), with all
gear provided.
Unlike other cruise lines, One Ocean does not charge extra for
overnight camping or the waterproof clothing and boots provided for
daily shore excursions.
November pricing is also much cheaper. In 2013-14, fares start at
US$6,590 (triple share); US$8,990 (twin share).
For bookings, contact Active Travel on 1300 783 188.
